Home > Lost Souls > Big Wave Surfer Greg Long on his Near-Death Experience: Sitdowns

Big Wave Surfer Greg Long on his Near-Death Experience: Sitdowns

Oct 2022 21

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Greg Long is one of the best big wave surfers in the world, but two years ago, he suffered a “non-fatal drowning” while surfing the infamous Cortes Bank. The archival footage of Long’s rescue team bringing him back to life is harrowing enough on its own, but beating death wasn’t Long’s last battle. With two years of recovery and personal struggles behind him, Long reflects on his near-death experience and getting back in the ocean to mount an inspiring comeback.

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  1. #1

    ya know

  2. #2

    Nobody mentions McNamara who dropped in on him. And went straight. Greg would’ve easily made it around the corner of that one.

  3. #3

    What an honest and inspiring recount of your experience. Absolute respect to you!

  4. #4

    "you know you just suffer"
    video: greg hoisting a $55,000 check for winning

    yeah, suffer.

  5. #5

    Well said man such good vibes about it you can tell he grew from this and truly learned. 🙏🏾

  6. #6

    Reminded me of Eddie Vedder of Pearl Jam

  7. #7

    Cool guy.

  8. #8

    Been here during my time in surfing.
    I thoughtI afew times I wasn't coming up but when I actually had the feeling of rolling over like a ragdoll twice in one day and the last one thought that this is it,I lost heaps of confidence in myself.
    But friends always remind me to never lose the feeling of surfing and that the comradery of this way of life should be forever.

  9. #9

    Ya know ?

  10. #10

    so much RESPECT!!

  11. #11

    what greg doesnt talk about is that he tried to pull his flotation c02 vest and it wouldnt work. he tried again and no luck. he tried one last time then he blacked out. he is insanely lucky to be alive. his friends literally dove into the water and pulled him up by his leash, saving his life.

  12. #12

    Greg is a really cool human being right up there with Laird as a legend surfer and inspirational to all brothers and sisters just a great person all good energy to you Greg…

  13. #13

    So I have a question… can you punch the guy who snakes you in the face?

  14. #14

    He's the only big wave surfer I've seen consistently get shacked paddling into Mavericks among other big wave spots. (Seems like a couple of those waves were big Puerto and I've seen videos of other surfers in the green room when they make the wave). Where was that wipeout?

  15. #15

    Greg Long, Jimmy Page, Reinhold Messner different situations same inspiration

  16. #16

    I've been surfing for over 20 years now, surfed all over the world in challenging conditions.
    I have never understood and i still don't understand how you can surf such big waves, wipe out and stay alive. I've experienced near drowning situiations in 6-8 foot surf (which is my limit).

  17. #17

    Keep charging brother!

  18. #18

    Why was he coughing blood? Do your lungs blow blood vessels in a situation like that or something.

  19. #19

    Big wave big balls ! Sheesh nothing but respect for this dude.

  20. #20

    I see you poaching, Vice.

  21. #21


  22. #22

    We're glad your here with us brother! !!

  23. #23

    Buen surfer de olas grandes saludos de costa rica🏄‍♂️

  24. #24

    Awesome, hope you're all good Greg

  25. #25

    hey!!!! you are great man!!!!

  26. #26


  27. #27

    Great story.

  28. #28

    Just like the State Park only on steroids. LOL.

  29. #29

    love the way this bloke handles himself in and out of the water. inspirational

  30. #30

    Something about his presence. Awesome human being

  31. #31

    ….if you’ve never experienced the “green room” you will not understand his passion!…for the “non-watermen” out there it is when you get “tubed”. God how I miss it!(I’m “high & dry” living in Alabama.)

  32. #32

    …this is what I need to do!

  33. #33

    glad you are well kid…

  34. #34

    he projects a beautiful energy and message. what in god's name is wrong with you people who want to focus on something so meaningless as saying "you know" when he is saying something meaningful. record yourself sometime in a conversation and see how often you say it or something like it. i used to read legal transcript and lawyers do the same thing constantly. focus one what's meaningful instead of some silly thing you can criticize to no good purpose

  35. #35

    3:05 one of the best paddle in waves ever!

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